Episode 3: A Local Gourmet Journey Through the Setouchi Region

Traveling through the Seto Inland Sea region is not only about discovering stunning coastal landscapes and historic towns. It’s also a culinary adventure. The region’s calm waters and rich cultural traditions have shaped a diverse food culture that blends fresh seafood, comforting local dishes and beautifully crafted sweets.

As you explore this part of Japan, every stop offers an opportunity to taste something unique. From savory street food in vibrant cities to delicate island desserts and traditional countryside cooking, Setouchi’s flavors reflect the everyday life and heritage of the communities who live there.

Hiroshima & Kure Area: Flavors Shaped by the Sea and the City

A visit to Hiroshima would not be complete without first tasting its most famous specialty: Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki. Unlike the Osaka version, this layered savory pancake includes noodles, cabbage, egg and a variety of toppings, all grilled together on a hot iron plate.

One of the best places to try it is Okonomi Mura, a lively building filled with small okonomiyaki counters. Each stall offers its own interpretation of the dish, allowing visitors to sample different flavors while watching skilled chefs cook directly in front of them. The sizzling sound of the grill and the rich aroma of sweet sauce create an atmosphere that feels unmistakably local.

For a more hands-on experience, head to OKOSTA, located inside Hiroshima Station, where you can learn how to make okonomiyaki yourself. Guided by friendly instructors, you’ll master the art of flipping the pancake using large metal spatulas. Vegetarian and gluten-free options are also available, making the experience accessible for all travelers.

Another local delicacy that has long been loved by Hiroshima’s residents is Koune, a thinly sliced beef brisket cut. Although rarely mentioned in guidebooks, this richly marbled meat offers the perfect balance of tender lean and sweet fat. It is typically grilled or lightly simmered and served at local izakaya or yakiniku restaurants.

Of course, Hiroshima is also renowned for its oysters. Harvested from the nutrient-rich waters of the Seto Inland Sea, they are known for their large size and creamy texture. Whether served grilled, fried or freshly shucked, Hiroshima oysters are considered some of the finest in Japan.

Just a short journey away, the port city of Kure offers its own unique culinary tradition. Many local restaurants serve naval curry, inspired by the hearty meals once prepared for sailors of the Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force stationed at Kure Base. Enjoying a plate of this rich, comforting curry while overlooking the harbor is a simple yet memorable Setouchi experience.

Miyajima & Hatsukaichi: Tasting the Island’s Specialties

Across the water lies Miyajima, an island famous not only for its iconic torii gate but also for its delightful sweets. The island’s signature treat is Momiji Manju, a maple-leaf shaped cake traditionally filled with sweet red bean paste.

At the historic confectionery shop Yamada-ya, visitors can take part in a hands-on baking experience and learn how these beloved sweets are made. Pour the batter into specially shaped molds, watch them bake to golden perfection, and then enjoy them warm and freshly made. They also make excellent souvenirs to take home.

During the winter months, seafood lovers should not miss a visit to Kaki no Yakata Teraiwa. Here, diners can grill freshly harvested oysters from the Seto Inland Sea directly at their table. Whether roasted, grilled with butter or lightly fried, preparing the oysters yourself becomes part of the experience.

njoying hot seafood while looking out over the calm sea is one of the simple yet unforgettable pleasures of travelling through the Setouchi region.

Matsuyama & Dogo Onsen: Local Dishes and Traditional Sweets

In Matsuyama, the culinary experience continues with comforting regional dishes rooted in local tradition.

One standout speciality is Iyo Udon. Unlike the firm, chewy Sanuki Udon found elsewhere in Shikoku, Iyo Udon is known for its soft, smooth texture and delicate bite. This gentle style allows the flavor of the broth and ingredients to shine through.

The broth itself is made from a light blend of katsuobushi (dried bonito) and kombu (kelp) harvested from the Seto Inland Sea, creating a subtle yet deeply satisfying umami flavor. Whether enjoyed as a simple bowl of kake-udon or topped with tempura or fried tofu, it’s a comforting dish that reflects the warmth of traditional Japanese home cooking.

Another iconic dish from the region is Tai-meshi, or sea bream rice. In this dish, fresh sea bream is cooked together with rice in a lightly seasoned soy-based broth, allowing the fish’s natural flavor to infuse every grain.

During the warmer months, visitors can also try Tai Somen, a refreshing seasonal dish where delicate Somen noodles are served with sea bream in a light broth. This is a perfect dish to have on a warm day near the coast.

Another popular local snack is Jakoten, an appetizing fried fish paste made from small whole fish. Crispy on the outside and soft inside, it makes the perfect bite to enjoy while strolling through town.

In the historic Dogo Onsen district, visitors can also discover a variety of traditional Japanese sweets served at local confectionery shops and ryokan. Stopping for tea and sweets after a relaxing bath is one of the most enjoyable rituals of visiting this famous hot spring town.

Located in the Dogo area of Matsuyama, Hana Hime Rou offers a truly unique cultural experience. It is the only teahouse where visitors can enjoy traditional ozashiki entertainment alongside a meal or tea ceremony.

Ozashiki culture centres around elegant hospitality and traditional performing arts. During the experience, geiko (the successors of geisha tradition) perform classical Japanese dance, play shamisen music and present refined cultural performances that have been passed down through generations.

Finally, no culinary journey through Ehime would be complete without tasting its famous mandarin oranges. The region produces more than 40 varieties of citrus, each with its own unique sweetness and aroma. Throughout Matsuyama you’ll find juice stands that sell freshly squeezed citrus drinks, where you can discover which one is your favorite.

Exploring the flavors of Hiroshima, Kure, and Matsuyama becomes even more enjoyable when combined with a scenic ferry journey across the Seto Inland Sea.

From bustling city restaurants to island bakeries and traditional tea houses, Setouchi offers a culinary journey that reflects the character of the region itself — relaxed, welcoming and deeply connected to the sea.